In Which Pennsylvania is long and rocky

An Update! I have returned to California for the time being (then drove through 10 states, then flew to CA again, flew back to kansas, drove through 9 more states, and wound up in CA again). Which means I have a lot of time on my hands since now, not only am I unemployed, I also don't walk ~10 hours a day and live in the woods! I expect to update the rest of my blog in the next month or so (I wound up getting a little distracted by the trail and things and didn't write for the second half of the AT, and it took a while to get back into it). I apologize for possibly shorter and less entertaining narration, as I'm now writing about things which happened a couple months ago and my memory is beginning to fade.

With that introduction and excuses out of the way, on with the walking!

Day 79 (August 31): Flatland and New Faces

As you probably don't recall, last updated ended with me leaving McDonnalds without using their restroom (because they were cleaning it), and disappointedly discovering the shelter I went to had no privy. After some research into my guidebook, I discovered the next privy wasn't for 12.7 miles. Sufficiently motivated, I broke camp fairly early and hiked on.

Pennsylvania continued to be rocky but flat as I hiked. It's strange, from the elevation profile, it looks really easy, but in reality it was constant rocks. We usesd to say that Pennsylvania was the promised land (because there were no mountains). I was beginning to update that assessment, and understand why Northbounders just laughed and said yes when we asked them about it (dirty NoBos).

The view from the rocky platue was nice... but it's all flat!

Eventually, I reached the restaurant that was by the trail and the guidebook said had a restroom. It was closed (though I did meet and talk with a hiker there... I have sadly forgotten her name. She was getting off for a wedding, then coming back. Also planning on finishing in January, so she may be still on the trail right now.)

Another 4 miles took me to the privy I could use. I'm not entirely sure why, but I had come to the conclusion I wasn't going to poop in the woods using a trowel. This might partially be because I didn't pack a trowel, so would have needed to dig and cover the cathole with my bare hands or sticks and rocks, which is exactly as unappealing as it sounds.

 As I left the shelter, I passed a group of discouraged section hikers. They warned me that the trail was way too rocky ahead and that I'd need to go slow. I did not slow down.

Finally, I reached the Eckville shelter (where I would spend the night), which was 0.2 miles off trail. A hiking club had built a shed in the backyard of a house, and installed bunks there. It had a permanent caretaker (who had lived in the house for ~15 years). He threw us all iceys to eat, which were delicious in the heat.

At the shelter, I reunited with Buns and Day Hiker (who had left ahead of me), and met Daytona (a southbounder I recognized from log books as having written half of her entries in french), and Master Shredder (a North Bounder who... probably wasn't going to make it (it's really late in the season and he wasn't doing large miles)). Just Right had decided she didn't want to do a 24 mile day today, so had fallen behind somewhere.

Stats:
Mileage: 24.2 miles
Elevation Change: 500 feet up, 1000 feet down

Day 80 (September 1): Shelter in Port

Today, I planned on going to Port Clinton. It'd be a fairly short day to offset the fairly long and uncomfortable day I'd just had, and would give me electricity and internet to finish arranging a visit with Malia.

The Appalachian Trail does some... questionable... maneuvers in how it gets from point A to point B. As the crow flies, Eckville shelter is ~5 miles from Port Clinton. As the AT hikes, Eckville shelter is ~15 miles. It decided to take 270 degrees of a circular arc, since that goes along the mountain ridge. That way, we can both do more elevation gain and loss, and take longer.

About 5 miles into the hike, it started to rain. This was the first time it had rained since I sent my boots home. I got wet. Eventually, I began to just repeat the mantra of "White Blaze. Not Lost." Whenever I saw a white blaze. Unfortunately, I still got lost in the rain (though I got back after a couple minutes of wandering in the rain).

After the rain stopped (it rained for ~1.5 hours), I met a guy who was doing a 4 day hike in preparation to hike the AT next year. He asked me a bunch of gear and hiking questions which I answered. He was impressed by my sandals.

Eventually, I reached Port Clinton. It's a small town with an actual inn called the Port Clinton Hotel. When I say "inn," I mean that in the medieval sense of story book dwellings for travelers. The ground floor was a restaurant and bar serving food and beer, and you could ask the bar tenders about lodging for the night. The second floor was a series of kind of small rooms, with bathrooms at either end of the hallway. It was a great experience (also quite cheap).

Stats:
Mileage: 14.8 miles
Elevation Change: 1500 feet up, 2000 feet down

Day 81 (September 2):Books are fun

Today, I decided I wanted a bit of a break since after my long day I had a rainy day (instead of a solid break), so I bought and read a book on Kindle (book name), and went to a breakfast place in Port Clinton. It's really a nice quaint town. I heartily recommend it. I also finalized arangements with Malia via the internet while I had it.

Eventually, I finished my book, so bought lunch at the inn, and went back on the trail. I stopped at the first shelter. There, I met up with Just Right, who was the only other person at the shelter.

Found Marshall's path. Maybe Kant is at the end?

Stats:
Mileage: 8.1 miles
Elevation Change: 1000 feet up

Day 82 (September 3): Pizza Delivery

Today, there was a nice coiled snake by the shelter as we were leaving. We bushwacked around it. The rest of the day was marked by excellent trail magic.

First, we came across a man at the first intersection 5 miles into our hike. He was a northbounder who was supporting his hiking partner through the 100 miles she'd missed. And doing trail magic for SoBos. I actualy missed him when I first passed the road, and he sprinted barefooted across Pennsylvania Rocks to catch up with me and ask me if I wanted a drink and a hot dog. I was grateful.

I promise this is a different picture than the one a couple days ago. It's just Pennsylvania always looks the same.

Immediately after leaving him, Just Right and I came across more trail magic, in the form of a cooler filled with organic food snacks. We ate several of them before continuing on (after she debated if she wanted to stay at the hostel the snacks came from).

Third, we stopped at a swimming hole with a rope swing. As I was doing laundry, a bunch of people came to spend the night there. They started a fire and offered us hot dogs to cook. We happily accepted and ate them.

Finally, we arrived at the 501 shelter. This shelter was superior to almost every shelter we've stayed at, because it had an inside with lots of bunks and a table, and pizza places delivered to it. We ate well that day.

Stats:
Mileage 15.1 miles
Elevation Change: trivial-none

Friendly Nate (NoBo I never personally met). I like the guy already.

Transcript for those who can't read it: 

Battle has ensued. There are no victories, but I know what has been lost. Today's totals: 4 wax-wings, 1 fly, and 1 gnat.

With each kill, I descend another step lower. A bitter taste is in the back of my throat, and each time I swat I unravel a little further, like I'm unwinding a tangled bear cable. It pulls forth, a twisted mess coated in an ichorous black ooze.

Sometimes, before the final blow I'll gaze into the multitude of eyes. I revel in the initial strike, breaking its wings, a crinkling death-knell announcing the fly's fate. At this moment I gaze into the fly, and I see madness staring back at me.

Each kill is no longer enough. I have blood on my hands-thick and viscous-but it is not enough. Perhaps this miasma of death has succeeded where DEET has failed. Without their constant droning I have no new target. How to slate this hunger? It is no longer enough to feel the pop as I end a miserable existance.

A hapless bramble blocks my path. Bereft of its fruit, it is empty, barren, worthless. My trekking poles blur into a graceful arc, a blue and black scythe which no bush can withstand.

Ask not for whom the pole fells; it fells for me!

Again and again I strike, til naught remains but shredded leaflets. the bitter taste is back, and it is sweet.

I have become as death, destroyer of thorns, but wait, stop, this is not me! I am friendly, not angry! I must re-find my inner zen, and reach an outer peace with the trail.

I must push on; hasten, hasten! Flee to town, baptize myself in the cleansing waters of the Port Clinton pavilion, annoint myself in salves of bacitracin and hydrocortisone. I shall be reborn, for I am

FRIENDLY NATE

Day 83 (September 4): Malia Visists

Today, I wound up inviting Just Right to come with Malia and myself for an off-trail adventure. She agreed. Malia picked us up, and drove us to a PA state park, where we went on a hike. The trail was well maintained! There weren't any rocks! The trail was wide! There were benches everywhere! Spiderwebs didn't coat the trail! There wasn't elevation gain! The trail went beside a creek and had pretty views! Just Right and I had no idea that Pennsylvania could have good hiking in it. While the AT does pass through the park, it only goes through approximately 100 yards.

A wild Grizzly. Image credit: Malia

Eventually, Malia drove us to a Wendy's where we ate food, and then a Walmart where we resupplied, then back to the trail. Just Right and I just did 4 miles to the next shelter, which was also past the 1000 mile mark! At this point we could sing the "I could walk 500 miles" song, and not be lying.

Yet another picture of Pennsylvania. I promise this is a different location.

See! There's even dayhikers there!

Stats:
Mileage: 4.1 miles
Elevation change: trivial-none

Day 84 (September 5): Peaches!

I decided I'd had a couple nice and easy days, and I should really make up miles, maybe see if I couldn't catch Buns and Dayhiker. So I left early in the morning, and just started walking. I passed through the park we'd hiked through (but didn't go on any of the nice trails there), was sadly passed by trail runners at one point, and continued walking.

The same bridge Malia drove Just Right and I to yesterday.

I met Not So Bad, who was completing his Triple Crown (all three North-South USA Thru-hikes), and grew up within 5 miles of where I did in CA! I also met up with Peaches, who had hiked past me while I was off trail the day before. He and I caught up, and wound up setting up camp together. We camped near a.. distrubingly red/brown stream. But the water was cold, and tasted great, so it probably wasn't too bad.

During the night, we may or may not have had a bear check out our camp. My glasses were off, and Peaches headlamp batteries were dead. Regardless, all our food was there in the morning, so it was ok.

Stats:
Mileage: 23.0 miles
Elevation change: 1500 feet up, 1500 feet down

Day 85 (September 6): To Duncannon

I'd heard conflicting reports about The Doyle in Duncannon since New Hampshire, so decided I'd go there to stay the night. Peaches agreed.

Duncannon from afar. A beacon of civiliazation, showers, and warm food!

We made pretty decent time, though there was no water at most of the shelters we passed, we managed to find some and not die. At the end of the hike, we entered Duncannon, a small town by the side of a large river with an interstate near it. Duncannon has... seen better days. It appears to be a town which had an industry which died (I didn't actually go to a museum or anything there, so I don't know it's history). The Doyle is a once grand building that's fallen into disrepair.

On the bridge to Duncanon. Also Peaches!

Like the Port Clinton Hotel, it's a bar and restaurant on the first floor, and a place to stay above it. Unlike the Port Clinton Hotel, it's got pretty cool pillars, architecture, and grand staircases. Unlike the Port Clinton Hotel, it smells of smoke, the bathrooms have no ceiling tiles, there are several inches of dust under the beds, and there's no air conditioning. As my standards are "has somewhere softer than the ground for me to sleep and has a place for me to poop," it passed my standards with flying colors. It even had somewhat working wifi!

Stats:
Miles: 19.4
Elevation Change: 2000 feet down, 1000 feet up

Zero at the Doyle and Reunions (September 7)

The next day, I decided I'd take a short day and resupply, since I liked the Doyle and it was hot. As Peaches and I were sitting out on the porch, we saw Camp Shoes and Double Dip walk by. After enthusiastically greeting them, we managed to convince them to take a zero with us at the Doyle. Just Right, Sailor Moon, and Daytona also wound up coming and staying at the Doyle. We had a grand time chatting, eating absurd quantities of delicious and cheap food, attempting the half-gallon challenge (where you eat a half-gallon of ice cream in one sitting), and general comradery. Hiking was not accomplished, but a good time was had by all. We all promised we'd hike more the next day (well, aside from Sailor Moon... she had a wedding to attend).

Also, Just Right offered to share a laundry load with me. I, and everyone else, warned her that her clothing would smell worse if she washed it with my clothing in it. I was, however, willing to pay for the laundry detergent, so Just Right did that. She has now learned to trust the warnings of others.

New Jersey and Beyond!

Here's another post (so soon, so fast!) Depending on how regularly you check, you might want to go read the post before this one too (these were posted within 24 hours!).

Day 73 (August 24): To New Jersey!

Today was the first day I hiked with a light pack (~25 lbs), and it was phenomenal! I wound up not getting a ride back to the trail, but 3 miles up 1000 feet felt like nothing with my new and lightened pack!

While exiting New York, I left on a ridge with a continuous view off to my left (and some scrambling). While I'd been hiking in my sandals for a while now, I was quite aware that I had no other recourse should I find something difficult. It all went ok though.

About 5 miles into my hike, I met up with Moose and Crash (short for "Crash and Burn," the now named hiker I met in New York). We hiked together south of New York and into New Jersey.

Crash, Mooses pack, and random patriotism near the New York Border

In New Jersey, we passed many day hikers going up a "mountain." Most interestingly, I saw one day hiker climbing barefoot. That seemed a little intense to me (though he wasn't moving very quickly).

Super official New York, New Jersey Border

After finishing our descent, Moose stopped us to read the bulletin board, which meant we found out there was an organic farm and ice cream store about 0.2 miles away. So we ate there. It was refreshing and delicious.

Moose and Crash hitched into town to stay at a hostel, but I wanted to get a few more miles in (I planned on resupplying the next day and wanted to make it to Union Ville).

After leaving Moose and Crash, I hiked on the longest continuous boardwalk in the AT. It was quite impressive and beautiful. Especially after hiking on a ridge for so long. Eventually I made it up to the shelter despite being dive-bombed by a few gnats.

Trail Friend

At the shelter I met a couple section hikers. They were very interested in my hammock, so I demonstrated how I set it up to them. They recorded it and said they'd put it on youtube (I haven't looked for it).

Stats:
Mileage: 21.6 miles
Elevation Change: 1000 feet up, 1000 feet down
Trail Conditions: Some sheet rock. No Biggie. Lots of Boardwalk

Day 74 (August 25): Parks and Recreation

Today I was resupplying. Part of my weight reduction I did during my zero was take less food and resupply more often. I wasn't sure how fast I could do this, so I planned a short day. I also wanted to let Moose and Crash catch back up.

The Swamps of New Jersey

I walked into Unionville and resupplied quickly, but just as quickly got distracted by a couple hikers. I chatted with one section hiker who had just started, and then went to a pizzeria a hiker went into. In it, I found Wednesday, a northbounder (kinda doubt she'd gonna make it...) She ordered 5 meals but could only finish 4.5 of them... which meant I got free food.

After eating a couple more meals, I decided I only had 7 more miles to do, so could dilly dally in town a bit, so wandered to their park and started reading a book on my Kindle (Shadows of Self by Brandon Sanderson). Eventually, around 3 PM, I left to go to the shelter.

At the shelter I met Wilson Wilson and Bent, both of whom had stayed at the hostel Moose and Crash stayed at the night before.

Wilson Wilson is a 68 year old thru-hiker named after his dog, Wilson. Unfortunatly, Wilson was unable to hike the trail, so it was just Wilson Wilson hiking, not Wilson and Wilson Wilson.

Later in the night (around 10 PM) Wily Riley showed up and set up his tarp. It was fun to meet new people, though Moose and Crash never arrived (I... haven't seen them since).

Stats:
Mileage: 12.4 miles
Elevation Change: 1000 feet up, 500 feet down
Trail Conditions: Plains are hot and muggy but towns are nice.

Day 75 (August 26): New Faces!

We hiked through High Point state park today, which was quite scenic. Today really reinforced the fact that we're not in Maine or New Hampshire anymore. First, there wasn't much elevation gain. Also, what elevation gain there was, was up switch backs. Maine and New Hampshire would just point you up a mountain and wish you luck. New Jersey held your hand and provided trails and removed the need to use your hands.

The highest point in New Jersey (not on AT) pictured from the second highest point in New Jersey (on AT) in High Point State Park

Second, The Appalachian Trail in New Jersey neglected to hit the highest point in the state! Maine and New Hampshire made sure to hit every highest point (preferably by descending into a valley between them). I was mildly worried I might be getting soft walking in this, but mostly just enjoying a relaxing hike with little weight, well made trails, and little elevation gain.

Looking down on New Jersey

Later into the day, we met another northbounder who... probably wasn't going to make it. We met him around 1 PM, and I noticed he was hiking in sandals (which I liked). But, he'd only gone 2 miles before 1 PM. And he was trying to average over 20 miles a day (to make it to Katahdin). Later, I found out he'd gone 4 miles the previous day.

Morning Sunbeams on the trail (looked better in real life)

We went into a tavern before ascending a small hill to our shelter. There we got to chat with each other and townsfolk. It was good.

Bent and ye-old lake

Me and ye-old lake

Finally, we made camp at our shelter and met Just Right, a Flip Flopper who started at New York going north, reached Katahdin, then returned to New York and is now headed south. Introductions out of the way, we slept and prayed bears wouldn't eat us (they didn't).

Stats:
Mileage: 19.6 miles
Elevation Change: 500 feet up, 500 feet down
Trail Conditions: State Forests

Day 76 (August 27): Reunions

Wilson Wilson and I wanted to make it to Deleware Water Gap (and thus Pennsylvania) today, which meant doing a fair number of miles. We left and made great time on the nice flat and easy trail (put in more than 10 miles before 10 AM), and caught up with a huge group of SoBos!

In that group were Peaches, Baby Bear, Pugs, Speedo and Nemo (who I hadn't seen since VT!), and relatives of Baby Bear and Pugs (since they lived in NJ). They were having a grand old time and it was great to talk with them, though they were stopping before Delaware Water Gap (DWG), so I said farewell and left them.

Wilson Wilson and the Deleware Water Gap (almost to PA)

A few miles later, we met a birdwatcher who was counting the hawk and thruhiker migration south (there'd only been one thru-hiker before us... but many hawks that day). We made our way further south and eventually hit a ton of weekend hikers (the curse of the Saturdays) and the Pennsylvania border. While walking to the free hostel in town, Wilson Wilson and I were stopped by a group of people in a yard.

Border between New Jersey and Pennsylvania

*Wilson Wilson and I walking, tired and hungry from ~25 miles of walking*
"Hey! Are you guys hungry?"
*Slow-motion head and body turn to the right*
"...Yes."
"Want some food? We're having a band picnic and have too much!"
"Yes."
*Limping over to the picnic*

So Wilson Wilson and I got free burgers, chicken salad, sangria, fancy IPAs, spaghetti, corn bread, watermelon, and other picnic foods. In exchange we told the band and their groupies a few trail stories. They invited us to come back for music and more food later in the day. We wound up sending some other thru-hikers at the hostel to eat seconds.

Eventually, we settled into the hostel, which was just the basement of a Presbyterian church which said, "Hm... the Bible tells us to welcome strangers. Let's let a bunch of random hobos live in the basement of our church." We were all very grateful.

Stats:
Mileage: 24.8 miles
Elevation Change: 500 feet up, 1000 feet down
Trail Conditions: So flat and nic--- where'd these rocks come from?

Zero at the Church (August 28)

Today was a Sunday, and since we were in the basement of a church, I went to church (for the first time since starting the trip). Technically it was a Presbyterian church and I'm Anglican, but the liturgy is similar enough that it was very comforting. Near the end of the service, the minister asked the congregation for things we were thankful for. I said I was thankful for there not being mosquitoes in their basement. They all laughed. I kinda think they might have been kidding.

After the service, Kenny, one of the church members shuttled 5 hikers to Walmart, where we resupplied. One death defying drive later, we all bought food and then came back. When we got back, Wily Rily and Just Right had arrived at the hostel, supposedly planning on taking a "brief break" before heading out (they wound up spending the night).

The ridge runner for the next 40 miles also stopped by the church. Ridge runners are people who walk the same ~50 miles of trail, picking up people's trash, maintaining the privies, checking water, clearing the trail, and encouraging people to follow leave no trace. He warned us that the next 75 miles was "the worst trail on the AT," and gave us the inside scoop on where we could get water for the next 40 miles (turns out, about half the labeled water sources were dry, so it was good he talked to us).

Eventually, the ridge runner convinced Just Right and myself we should invest in different footware. So we took another death defying drive to Walmart. While driving, Kenny told us about how just the other day he'd been in an accident. Then he pulled across into oncoming traffic at a blind turn so he could park and we could fix the door ajar. Then we almost got hit getting back into our lane after fixing the door. But at least now we're saved from the improperly closed door.

At Walmart, I purchased some equipment (better headlamp & body glide & bug spray), and Just Right bought some child sized boots (she has small feet). I decided I'd take my chances with my sandals. They'd lasted me ~250 miles with no real problems, they could probably handle the next 200.

That evening, there was a cookout and music session at the church. However, I didn't want to pay $3 for a hot dog (because I'd probably need 5), so instead Just Right and I went to the local pizzeria and each got 14 inch pizzas (which we finished there).

Finally, as we were preparing for sleep, a father (Lost Cause) and daughter (Rewind) pair with their dog came in. I think Rewind is 12. They're thru-hiking. Also, a 76 year old Veteran came in going north. He had a 50+ lb pack and was also thru-hiking. I'm pretty comfortable saying age is not a huge restriction to thru-hiking.

Stats:
Walmart trips: 2
Times driver almost killed us: 2
Meals eaten: Only a couple... but big ones
Hikers sucked into staying the night: 7

Day 77 (August 29): Pennsylvanian Rocks

Knowing that Pennsylvainia's terrain might slow me down, I left with sunrise (~6:15 AM). I climbed up to the ridge the next 25 miles are on and walked. The first section was pretty familiar to me. Later, I met a pair of day hikers concerned for me:

*Sees 3 dogs and 2 people walking*
*Smiles and starts petting the dog who came up to me*
"Hello"
"How are you?"
"Good"
"Do you have any boots?"
"Nope."
"You know you're going into 'ankle breaker alley' right"
"I heard the rocks were bad. I'll probably be ok."
"I hope you're not going far, you'll need to go slow over the rocks."
"Thanks for the advice, have a good hike!"
"You too."
*Leaves the wonderful furry companion to go maybe break some ankles*

It really wasn't that bad. There were rocks and I did need to watch my step, but I'd climbed worse. It didn't really slow me down much. I have decided that Pennsylvania has at least 5 different difficulty ratings of trail: Beginner, Easy, Normal, Rocky, and Fun. "Ankle Breaker Alley" definitely fell into the "Fun" category. Here's images of each of the categories:

Beginner trail: for the uninitiated

Easy Trail: a couple rocks, not too bad

Normal Trail: few large rocks, lots of little rocks everywhere. Expect foot pain.

Rocky trail: be careful where you step, don't twist your ankle. Expect foot pain.

Fun trail: see 5 foot tall stick for scale.

"Ankle Breaker Alley:" Jumping across rocks on a ridge while having a view. Super Fun.

Normal Trail with foot stepping.

Eventually, I made it to the shelter I was aiming for, and met Day Hiker and Achilles there! Turns out they'd gotten a stomach bug and been forced to take 5 zeros off trail, which enabled me to catch them despite taking two zeros, a nero, having them leave while I stayed, and not going particularly fast. We chatted. Of particular note, we found a mildly crass and misogynistic haiku someone (probably a day-hiking high school senior) had written. We decided to write a two page long feminist reinterpretation of it. We... might need to find better things to do.

Eventually, Just Right made it to camp, and I volunteered to go on a water run (water was 0.5 miles down the mountain).

The beginning of the trip was marred by difficulty, as in the process of standing up I dealt my pants a fatal blow (4 small holes and 2 mild holes in the seat of the pants is ok. 4 small holes, 2 mild holes, and 1 1" by 1" hole in the seat of the pants is probably not ok.) Mourning the impending loss of my pants (it's not like I had anything to change into), I descended the mountain looking for water. Unfortunately, I missed the turn-off to the spring and wound up going into some neighborhood. I briefly considered knocking on a door to ask if they could fill up the 4.5 gallons of capacity I had brought (I took everyone's water things), but decided that would be a little weird, and I should just return and look for the spring on the way up. I eventually found it, and returned to camp just as night was falling with 30+ lbs of water. There was much rejoicing.

Stats:
Mileage: 20.1 miles
Elevation Change: 1500 feet up, 500 feet down
Trail Conditions: "Ankle Breaker Alley"

Day 78 (August 30): McDonnalds Hobo Etiquette

Today, we passed the Superfund site. This is a place which did copper smelting a little too hard, deforested a mountain, and is now a reforestation project. It was actually one of the nicest portions of trail we've walked on. Immediately afterwards, the 1000 foot descent down a boulder field was one of the most fun portions of trail we've walked on.

Lunch Break spot

After descending, I wanted to go into town to resupply, buy dinner, and charge my phone. Unfortunately, Pennsylvania hitching failed me, so I wound up walking 2.5 miles into town... then 2.5 miles out of town.

While resupplying, I reached a conundrum. I normally go to McDonnalds (or similar) restaurants when in town because 1. I can eat a meal for under $20, 2. They normally have outlets, 3. They normally don't mind if a smelly homeless guy sits in their booth for 3 hours.

Unfortunately, the McDonnalds I went to was already full of homeless charging users! All three of the tables with outlet access were taken! I settled into a watch nearby after ordering my food, determined to swoop in and take the coveted outlet once one of them left.

An hour later, I'd eaten my food, but the three outlet users were still going strong. Charging my phone was imperative because I had a friend in Pennsylvania I was trying to coordinate visiting with. I needed to leave within 2 hours, unless I got a hitch back to the trail, in which case I could leave in 3 hours. I considered my options:

Table 1: An older (60-ish) man with about a week's worth of gray stubble, a phone and tablet charging at his table, a small fortress of possessions, slightly dirty clothing (not as bad as mine), and food spread around.
Table 2: A middle aged (40-ish) man, clean shaven, tucked in polo shirt, one meal eaten in front of him, charging his phone. Probably owns a car.
Table 3: A young (upper 20s?) woman with an infant in a stroller. Charging a phone, feeding her child, and talking to someone at the same time. Probably a single mother?

My target acquired, I approached the clean man and asked:
"Is it alright if I use the other outlet at your table? I'll just be over there."
*points to the table my pack, three meals, walking stick, guidebook, large drink, nalgenes, and other assorted gear are at*
*Man looks up, looks frightened*
"Oh! Yes! That's fine. I was just leaving."
"Thanks!"
*I plug in my phone and return to my table*
*man frantically packs his things and has left the McDonnalds within 1 minute*
*Success!*

Charging secured, I contacted Malia to begin arranging when and what she'd like to do while I was in Pennsylvania.

2 hours later, when I needed to leave, I packed up my things (table 1 was still going strong, table 3 had vacated about 45 minutes after I started charging) and left. Sadly, the McDonnalds bathroom was being cleaned (or something), so I couldn't get the full McDonnalds experience, but I figured I'd just poop at the privy in the shelter I was going to.

Stats:
Mileage: 16.7
Elevation Change: 1000 feet up, 1500 feet down
Trail Conditions: Wait... there's no privy? Madness.

Blessings,
David "Grizzly" Martin

P.S. Ok. Now I'm back off into the Maryland wilderness, which means no keyboard, which means little to no typing, which means back to radio silence from me (for most of you). Rest assured, I'm doing well, I'm now over halfway through, and I'm excitedly looking forward to the Shenandoahs, which I should get to in the next couple days. Then, I think I'll get some views as good as I got in Maine and New Hampshire (Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and New York didn't have that many great views... by my standards)

Disappointment's in the Air... No... that's just water

Every journey has it's ups and downs. I feel like this post does a decent job of describing a few of my more recent ups and downs. Enjoy :)

Day 59 (August 8): Blue Berries and Bears

Dawn of a new day. Today I decided I'd make it to Upper Goose Pond (where I'd intended to go yesterday), but since I'd been told it was an easy trail, I slept in and started hiking around 8 AM.

For the first 7 miles I was excited to go to the cookie lady's house (which was 7 miles into the day's hike). She greets hikers with two cookies, and lets them pick blueberries from her field to take to Upper Goose Pond for blueberry pancakes. She also has a water spigot, so you can fill up on clean water.

I missed the turnoff for the cookie lady. So I kept hiking and filtered water from a dirty stream further down the trail (and ate a Cliff bar). I also met up with Moose, which was odd, since she'd camped further down the trail and I'd started late. Turns out, she got woken up by a bear last night.

So, Moose was hiking, and stealthed about .1 or .2 miles from a road, figured we hadn't seen any bears, they probably wouldn't come too near the road, and it was late and dark; so she just hung her food off her hammock strap (something many people have done, though I've never been that brave). Around 2 AM, she was woken up to something trying to get at her food bag. She shooed it away, and saw that it was a bear cub. About 30 minutes later, the mother came by and started having a go at her food. Moose decided to curl up in a ball at the opposite end of her hammock and hope it went away. Eventually, the bear got it's claw stuck in her hammock, and started yanking her hammock around. Moose then got out and sprinted to the road, where she waited 3 hours until someone drove by.

Once a car came by, they checked out her campsite (her food bag was torn up, food was everywhere, and her hammock has a rip in it) and reported it to a ranger. She got a ride into town to buy more food, and got back on the trail. It'd been a long stressful day for her.

In other news, the hikers I'm passing going north are now more section hikers than thru-hikers. Which is good, because Katahdin closes October 15, and it took me about that much time to get down here from there (counting zeros), so thru-hikers I meet now are either not going to make it, or need to start pulling big miles.

Upper Goose Pond. Quite a beautiful oasis

Once I reached Upper Goose Pond, I saw why so many people raved about it (sadly, I forgot to take pictures). It's a cabin with bunks and mattresses and a caretaker and canoes and a dock and 3 privies and bottled spring water. It was basically heaven. A bunch of SoBos I thought I'd never see (because they were ahead of me by a couple weeks when I started) were there, and "decided" to zero that day (they just kept postponing their departure until it was time to go to sleep). It's a great place.

Stats:
Mileage: 17.6 miles
Elevation Change: 500 feet up, 500 feet down
Trail Thoughts: Is my stick thick enough to beat back a bear?

Day 60 (August 9): Where'd the water go?

Waking up to blueberry pancakes is great. Waking up without having to swat mosquitoes off myself is even better. So, today had an excellent start. Then, I dillydallied on the dock with Pugs, Baby Bear, Peaches, and Moose, and eventually started hiking (they remained on the dock).

Leaving Upper Goose Pond. If you look VERY closely, you can see Moose, Peaches, Baby Bear, and Pugs relaxing on a dock.

I found trail magic! It was a bunch of watermelons and some bottled water. I took a watermelon slice and topped off my water. While I was doing that, Funk Train, Thumper, and Honey Buns caught up to me. They'd been in front of me by quite a bit, but had been partying hard enough I caught them. I hiked with them for the rest of the day.

After carefully interviewing the NoBos we passed, we decided on a shelter to stop at because we were told it had water. I decided to risk it and plan to run out of water right before I hit the shelter (because carrying weight is painful). Fortunately, it all worked out in the end. Unfortunately the water was a really small spring you needed to lie down near and scoop water out. Doubly unfortunately there were ground bees all over. But, none of them wound up biting me and the water was really cold, so it was all good. A section hiker even let me borrow her scoopy so I could more easily get water.

Stats:
Mileage: 15.8 miles
Elevation Change: 2000 feet up, 2000 feet down
Trail Thoughts: To fill or not to fill... that is the question.

Day 61 (August 10): Suicide Squad

Today, we stopped by Great Barrington. I left early to escape the forecasted rain (I got off the trail about 20 minutes before the rain started). This town was one of the friendliest places to hikers I've been to. I got a hitch in really easily to the community center, where I paid 6 dollars for a shower and a towel (I'm afraid that towel may never be the same), and met some NoBos who needed me to finish their six pack so they could hike.

Ye Ol' Cloud Covered Pond

Then I stopped by McDonald's for some electronics charging and food (I eventually had 3 separate meals here), and also resupplied at the local store. There I met back up with Thumper, Funk Train, and Honey Buns, who'd left the shelter after me. I'd talked with the NoBos about things to do in town, and they mentioned they'd seen Suicide Squad, which I hadn't really heard about (because I was busy woodsing), but thought it'd be fun to see. I mentioned it to the others and we decided we'd go see the movie.

Unfortunately, we misjudged the distance from McDonalds to the movie theater. Fotunately, we all got hitches there. Also, between getting out of his hitch and getting into the movie theater, Thumper was stopped by a barista in an alley who offered to let us stay the night at her apartment. After the movie (which was pretty bad).

We wandered the town, where a woman and her daughter talked to us for about a half hour about trail things and long distance hiking, and got dinner. I decided I wanted to hike another 2 miles on the trail because I was pretty confident I'd not be getting out early if I stayed the night. Also I was fairly confident it would get kinda awkward since I don't smoke or do drugs and it sounded like a small apartment.

I hiked the 2 miles out to the shelter and stayed with some of the NoBos I'd met in town (there are two entrances).

Stats:
Mileage: 5.3 miles
Elevation Change: 500 feet up, 500 feet down
Trail Thoughts: People are really nice.

Day 62 (August 11): Hey Summer... This is Awkward

Today I started hiking in a cloud. It was hot. Clouds should not, as a general rule, be hot. When they're cool, they're pleasant and relaxing. When they're hot, they're uncomfortable, moist, clammy, and sweaty. I'm fairly confident August is supposed to be past summer though, and I've got a picture of a dying tree to prove it! The temperature disagrees with me.

I see you fall! No need to be shy.

Later, I found out that the heat index for today was 104, with the actuals being in the 90s and humidity around 70%. It didn't help that shortly after starting in the cloud, I descended to low level farmland where I walked through fields without tree cover. It was awful.

Finally, in the afternoon, I climbed up a ridge where it was slightly cooler (but still unpleasant), and heard about great trail magic (ice cold water and gatorade). So I went there and drank a lot of water and a bottle of gatorade. There, I met back up with Honey Bun, Thumper, and Funk Train. It also started to rain, but was still hot and humid, which we all thought was cheating. We decided to just hike back 0.4 miles to stay at a shelter rather than go the remaining 5 miles we had planned the night before.

Flatlands of MA

Stats:
Mileage: 14.4 miles
Elevation Change: 1500 feet up, 1000 feet down
Trail Thoughts: Sure are a lot of farms

Day 63 (August 12): Swimming into Connecticut

The previous night, Honey Bun and Thumper were texting a section hiker who lived in the area they'd met at Upper Goose Pond cabin. She wanted to hike with us and bring us donuts and coffee. So she did. It was great. Note: I almost never drink coffee. I drank about half a large Duncan Donuts Iced Coffee, and let me tell you: no mountain has been climbed in such a rush before.

Left to right: Funk Train, Honey Buns, and Thumper viewing the flatlands on a ridge.

After summiting the mountain, we met up with Sleeping Beauty and got to a nice swimming hole right on the border of Connecticut. We took a hour and a half break there before pressing on into CT. Once we climbed the first mountain (Bear Mountain) in CT, we saw that there were lots of scattered thunderstorms in the area. So we hiked faster. The other three guys were meeting up with another section hiker they'd met earlier, so I hiked on to the shelter alone. I haven't seen them since, but they must have gotten ahead of me at some point because I've seen their names in logs. I have a slight suspicion they yellow blazed (rode to somewhere further south in a car).

At the shelter I met back up with Piece By Piece (who'd been hiking with Funk Train and the others until he decided he wanted to not smoke weed e'ry day... just every other day) and Troubadour, who'd slowed down to hike with his girlfriend for a week or two. It was a great shelter with a nice piped spring. I love fast flowing piped springs. They're cold, clean, and I don't get bitten much while getting water.

I'm told the heat index today was 105. It sure felt hot, but between being relatively high, in good tree cover, with strong winds, occasional thunderstorms, and swimming, it wasn't that bad.

Stats:
Mileage: 17.5 miles
Elevation Change: 3000 feet up, 3000 feet down
Trail Thoughts: If that's CT's worst mountain this'll be an easy state

Day 64 (August 13): Heat Wave

Today was hot. The Heat Index was over 110. I sweat while siting shirtless in the shade. I drank 8 liters of water, and was horribly dehydrated. The stream I had counted on to fill water at was dry, so I had to hike 3 miles without water while dehydrated. I poured about 50 mL of water out of my left boot during a water break and considered filtering it and drinking it again. I probably wrung more than 100 mL out of my socks. I switched from hiking in my boots to hiking in my sandals because my feet, socks, and boots were soaked. All of this led to me stopping halfway through my planed hike... in a swamp.

For whatever reason, there's a racetrack near the trail.

Turns out, there's lots of mosquitoes in the swamp. I probably got over 100 bug bites this day. My legs may never be the same. Also I was in sandals, so my feet got tons of mosquitoe bites. Also there was a lightning storm that night, but the humidity was still high and it was still hot, so my boots were still soaked.

On the bright side, I met Calvin and Hobbes today, who I'd read about in the logs, but assumed I'd never meet (they were doing fast days and were 2 weeks ahead of me before I took a week off). But they'd taken 21 consecutive zeros for tetanus and a couple weddings, so they came in a couple hours after I did to the swampy shelter.

At least the swamp was wet and thus had water.

Stats:
Mileage: 11.4 miles
Elevation Change: 1000 feet up, 1000 feet down
Trail Thoughts: Heat... Dehydration... Heat... Bugs.... Humidity... No Water... Hot... I'll stop here

Day 65 (August 14): The Housatonic River

Today I awoke to the sight of 30-ish mosquitoes on my bug net and biting me through the net, my hammock, and my clothing. It was uncomfortable. I put away my wet sleeping gear while getting bit, and ate my food while serving as the swamp's food. Then I ran away from the swamp as fast as my socks and sandals would take me (no chance am I putting those boots on). I'm considering switching to just hiking in sandals if my feet can take it. It'd be a fair amount of weight I could send home if I can manage it... I just need to make sure I can actually hike in sandals before sending my boots home.

Hiking with Calvin and Hobbes was a lot of fun. They'd both recently graduated from Goshen college, which is affiliated with Wheaton college, so we had a lot in common and fun conversation.

About 10 miles into the hike, we came across the Housatonic River, which we've passed two or three times already. It also looked like we were going to pass it again in about 20 miles. At our lunch break we had a brief moment of frantic activity.

Gorgeous trail by a lazy river. Great hiking.

Hobbes (feverishly excited): "What if we just got a canoe and aqua-blazed down the river this afternoon?"
Calvin and I: "That'd be great. You have 20 minutes and our cell phones to try to get us a canoe."
*20 minutes later*
We left the shelter on foot with slightly drained batteries.

I had planned to resupply in Kent, but had just enough food I could stretch it another day. That would mean I'd have to spend less time hiking today, which was a plus in my book. Also everything I'd heard about Kent said it was the only bad place for hikers on the trail (lots of entitled rich kids apparently), so I was fine with passing it by. It was still hot.

Stats:
Mileage:17.3 miles
Elevation Change: 1500 feet up, 1000 feet down
Trail Thoughts: Aqua blazing would be nice.

Day 66 (August 15): GOODBYE FOREVER CT!

Today Calvin, Hobbes, and I left CT. We were very happy. I honestly don't remember much else on that hike. Most of our conversation was just celebrating leaving CT.

I did decide that because the last couple days had been awful, I'd take a zero (even though I hadn't planned on it) in the town I was passing through. Calvin and Hobbes were taking three zeros at a friend's anyways, so they were able to give me a ride to the town I zeroed in (which is important, because hitch-hiking is illegal in New York).

Stats:
Mileage: 18.1 miles
Elevation Change: 2000 feet up, 2000 feet down
Trail Thoughts: Sleeping in CT was definitely a mistake. Should have done the CT challenge (50 miles through all of CT in one day). My poor skin.

Zero day (August 16): Write a pos-- BOOKS!

Today was a fairly simple plan: Eat food. Buy food. Buy fuel. Write a blog-post. Lie Down. Don't scratch too many of my bites. I did three of those things.

I walked from my motel to town (about 2 miles) in my sandals and stopped at a deli and ate breakfast (yum). Then I went to the library to write about my adventures. However, the library required you sign in to their computer to use it. It looked like I could probably ask a library to get an hour of computer time, but no chance could I write a blog post in that time, and I didn't want to talk to people anyways. So I browsed the shelf.

I found Going Postal by Terry Pratchett, and so decided to read that (I hadn't read any of his books before). It was a good book and I enjoyed reading it.

When I was about halfway through reading the book, Steely (a SoBo I'd met a couple weeks ago) said hi to me, and we got lunch together. Turns out, he'd had the same experience I'd had (where he dropped his wallet), but without the saving grace of great SoBos behind him (like I'd had). So now he had to call his bank and be like "No, I'm not at my home address. No I don't have any form of ID. I'm at a library in New York. Yes I understand how that sounds. Actually, if it's going to take five days, could you send it to this other town?" It sounded awful. I bought a regal gift card from his because he needed the cash more than he needed to see free movies.

Stats:
Hikers Helped: 1
Pokemon hatched: 2
Books read: 1
Legs scratched: 2
Bleeding bug-bites: unknown
Blogs updated: 0
Calories consumed: 7000?
Electronics charged: both
Trail Thoughts: I love me some zeros.

Day 67 (August 17): Yogi and BooBoo

I should hike a while today. Maybe 20 miles? It is right after a zero after all. Wait. Checkout isn't until 10 AM.... maybe I'll do less.

So I left the motel at 10 AM. Also, when resupplying yesterday, nobody had fuel, so I only bought cold food. Also, I decided to hike in sandals with my boots tied to the back of my bag. I figure I'd like to have a lighter pack, but I don't want to regret sending something home. So I just won't use a bunch of stuff for a week or so, then I'll send it home. And now I get to try out going stoveless too. Perfect.

Nuclear Lake. AKA the swimming hole that gives super powers.

I got a little lost today on the trail after Nuclear Lake. My thought process went something like this

*hiking through woods happily*
"Man, this sure is some nice trail. Seems almost like a road."
*hiking along*
"Well, you know what they say, when the trail gives you easy miles, gobble them up"
*hikes a little faster*
"Wait... I don't see any white blazes. Maybe I'll see some northbound blazes if I turn around?"
*looks behind, no blazes*
"Well... I don't remember taking a turn. And I'm going roughly south. I'll just walk and see what happens"
*Gets to a closed and locked gate*
"uess I'll jump this"
*arrives at parking lot*
"Oh look! A Map! Where am I?"
*5 minutes later*
"Only 0.4 miles off trail? Sweet!"

So I wound up hiking two legs of a right triangle rather than taking the hypotenuse, which, all things considered wasn't too bad.

I reached the lesser of my two targets, and decided I'd try to wait for Camp Shoes and Double Dip (who I'd heard had gotten over his giardia). While waiting, Yogi and BooBoo, two section hikers came in for their first day in the woods. Interacting with them was very amusing.

Neither of them had done anything like this before, and this was their practice hike to determine if they'd hike the AT the next year. So they'd bought about $2000 worth of gear, 10 days of food, and driven out into the woods. By the time they got to the shelter (6 miles and 6 hours from where they'd parked) they were pretty beat. They warned me about "that huge effing mountain" they had to climb to get here and how the terrain was awful and the trail wasn't well maintained or marked and they'd gotten lost. I said "yeah" and thought *we're literally 900 feet above sea level. There was no mountain.*

They then proceeded to pull out a bunch of the things they'd brought, like: a full bottle of Makers Mark, a solar shower, two hatchets, and two knife-hammers. I balked at the things they had. They shared the Makers Mark though, so that made them fast friends with everyone. Some NoBos who had a bunch of their whiskey set their tent up for them and just sort of threw the rain tarp over it.

A week later, I found out from Steely that BooBoo had his tail cut off the night before... and was hiking in jeans. No way was that comfortable.

Later, Peaches and Scruffy (both SoBos) caught up and made camp. Apparently, Camp Shoes and Double Dip had done trail magic (They live about 30 minutes from the trail here), but had set up about 45 minutes after I passed the intersection they cooked burgers and hot dogs at.

At the end of the day, I set up my hammock and decided to roll the dice on if it'd rain or not and not set up my tarp. I lost.

Stats:
Mileage: 10.9
Elevation Change: 1000 feet up, 700 feet down
Trail Thoughts: If 'yer gonna woods, either do no research/prep/reading, or a lot. Going halfway is just sad.

Day 68 (August 18): Deli Detours

In the morning (woken nice and early at 4:15 by rain on my face) I found that BooBoo had been throwing up all night, and neither BooBoo nor Yogi had figured out or bothered to set up their rain tarp properly, electing to just have everything they own get wet instead. I'd at least hedged my bets the night before by putting my pack in the shelter, and once I felt rain instantly moved my sleeping bag and hammock into the shelter, so the next night I wouldn't be wet.

Eventually, I took off, planning on doing a 27 mile day with a stop at a deli in the morning. I listened to music and ran in my sandals over the trail that Yogi and BooBoo had been complaining about the night before. In their defense, there were some rocks and a couple fallen trees. Nothing like Maine or New Hampshire though.

I stopped at the deli with Scruffy and Peaches and had a sandwich. And two gatorades. And filled water. And charged my phone. It was a good time. Then we hiked on.

Later, we reached the RPH shelter, the last shelter for 32 miles. Also, the only? shelter on the AT you can order pizza delivered to. Sadly, as we were there around noon, the pizza place wasn't open and we weren't irresponsible enough to stop hiking then just for pizza. Though we considered it.

While we waited, Camp Shoes came by slackpacking. He and Double Dip were slack packing 32 miles today, and about 32 miles tomorrow. Turns out just walking without packs is real easy when you've been doing it for 2+ months with a bunch of weight on your back.

We also met a NoBo who told us about a magical lake with a sandy beach and a concession stand and flush toilets and free food. We decided to scrap our plans and go there.

Unfortunately, the beach closed early and the campgrounds were substantially further off trail than we'd thought. Also, I had to hang my hammock above a swamp (again). The bugs were awful. Fortunately, there was indeed free food. Peaches, Scruffy, and I were all discouraged enough that we decided we'd cheat and walk the other way around the lake (the AT goes south around the lake, the campsite was north of the lake, we just met up with the AT after it passed the lake the next day).

Stats:
Mileage: 14.0
Elevation Change: 1000 feet up, 1000 feet down
Trail Thoughts: ....What's a little Blue-Blazing (skipping a section of the AT by walking easier trails)between friends?

Day 69 (August 19): You hike and then you stop

I slept in and observed the 20+ mosquitoes trying to bite me (I've now learned that even when it's 100 degrees you need to get in your sleeping bag in your hammock because bugs can bite through nets, hammocks, and clothes, but if you throw a layer of sleeping bag into the mix it stops them. Or, at least, that's the theory). Eventually, I left camp after Peaches and Scruffy. They were both planning on doing big days, so I'd said bye to them the night before. I'm not feeling a big day today.

The hike was fairly simple. Eventually I got to a deli where I bought and ate a pizza and two gatorades, charged my phone, and filled my water. There I met a Lasher (Long Ass Section HikER) going south who had started today... and gotten lost and wound up going in a 10 mile circle. Eventually I found a campsite and slept.

9/11 memorial spray painted on the AT near NYC

Stats:
Mileage: 16.0
Elevation Change: 1000 feet up, 1000 feet down
Trail Thoughts: I itch and hurt and hate bugs. I'll just sleep here.

Day 70 (August 20): All... The... People...

While I was in my hammock last night, 3 section hikers had also come into camp. It's kind of funny how now there's a fairly large disconnect even between the woodsy normal people and myself. Like, they find things like digging holes to poop in, or filtering water, or hanging bear bags, or being swarmed by mosquitoes, or going to sleep when the sun goes down weird. To me, it's just life at this point.

This got me to thinking about the AT and what I'm doing. I'm not hiking it to complete it, I'm hiking it for adventure, fun times, memories, and interesting people. I've certainly gotten what I came for. The question is if completing it will be something I enjoy. If the last 10 or so days are any indication, I'm not enjoying it anymore, so maybe I should go home? Regardless, I need to keep walking today. Gotta get to water.

Eventually, I passed through Fort Montgomery and climbed Bear Mountain. I didn't account for the fact that today was a Saturday, and I was hiking through a park and New York's most popular mountain. I must have passed several hundred people while climbing (sometimes in groups of 20+). It was a 1000 foot climb of a mountain, so normally I'd consider taking a breather somewhere on the incline. But there were so many people on the mountain and the entire mountain had stairs, so I didn't. I just passed fit looking people in my sandals and 40 lb pack. I began to consider that I might not be in only slightly above average shape anymore (at least when it comes to hiking).

After summitting the mountain, I ate lunch (and got stares for pulling out tortillas, peanut butter, and tuna), took a couple pictures and moved on. There's plenty of other views which don't have hundreds of tourists. There was also a cyclist group, a motorcycle gang, and a Ferrari with a go-pro.

Bear Mountain, NY. Too many people.

While hiking up, I met up with Dayhiker, Achilles, and Buns (three SoBos I hadn't met before, who'd passed me while I zeroed the other day). We hiked together for the day.

We passed a group of day hikers who stopped us because there were women peeing ahead of us. We humored them and stopped for a bit (though honestly, it's on you when you pee in the woods to find a secluded spot. Don't just post guards. I was upset at having to stop). While we waited they started talking to us. Then they started hiking again, but they were going slow and kept talking to us. Then I saw the rest of the group, and there must have been about 30 of them. And they were all walking pretty slow. And I wanted to not miss my miles just because of these day hikers. So I ignored the person talking and started walking faster.

Funny story: I heard at least three people sniff and ask other hikers if they'd put on their deodorant that morning, to which they'd all responded "of course!" I guess getting smelly in the woods would be weird? Once I got ahead of them I started running up the next mountain because I didn't want them to catch me when I broke for lunch.

I didn't run fast enough.

After failing to obtain free food from the day hikers ("Oh? You're hiking the AT? That's cool." "Yep. And we eat a lot, so any extra food is appreciated" "..." *goes to talk to someone else*), we left the view and continued hiking. Eventually, we got near the shelter before our target, and found out that the shelter we were aiming for was closed for repairs. I decided to call it a day early and just stay at the shelter before it. This meant I had a fair amount of daylight to unwind in, which was nice. Dayhiker, Achilles, and Buns went on, but Scruffy and Peaches (who had stayed at a hostel the night before) and Steely, Calvin, and Hobbes caught up, which was nice. Calvin and Hobbes also told us all about a shortcut to a beach they were planning on taking the next morning. We were all in for that.

Lunch break location (pre-day hiker invasion)

Stats:
Mileage: 12.4 miles
Elevation Change: 2500 feet up, 2000 feet down
Trail Thoughts: So many people I don't want to talk to. So many people who want to talk to me. Clearly I need to smell worse so they all leave.

Day 71 (August 21): Gettin' Lost Like A Pro

Peaches and Scruffy went on ahead in the morning before Calvin and Hobbes woke up. Steely and I waited for them to wake up so we could take our (1 mile maybe) shortcut and get to a beach with water, flush toilets, and a concession stand.

We hiked for about an hour on the shortcut, then came across some white blazes (which we assumed was the AT) when we didn't expect to. After a brief disagreement, Calvin and Hobbes went one way, Steely and I went another. 1.5 miles later, Steely and I discovered we'd choosen poorly (though we also saw a deer, so it was ok).

Well hello to you too!

We hiked back, and eventually made it to the beach (Calvin and Hobbes were long gone), where we got water and hobo'd like bosses (didn't look homeless enough to get anyone to offer us free food though. And the trashcans were mostly full of empty bottles).

We eventually started hiking again, going south. I stayed on my own and just hiked. I came across the "lemon squeezer" which was supposed to be a really hard terain part of New York. Honestly, it just felt like an average section of Southern Maine. I didn't change out of my sandals.

Easy way? Why'd I take that? There's an easily scalable cliff.

Shortly after I emerged onto it, I passed three people running a triathlon. I can't imagine seeing a dirty dude with a scragly beard, a stick, socks and sandals, and a giant pack casually speed walk past you as you jog a triathlon is very encouraging. All I know is that I only let thru-hikers hike faster than me. I can and will run the AT faster than you if you get on my trail. We carried on a brief conversation in which I talked normally and they kind of breathed hard. It was weird.

A few miles later, I was walking, and again felt the trail was a little too nice. I looked around, and, yep, no white blazes. I really need to pay more attention to that. So I backtracked and found the trail again.

Around 5 PM it started to rain. It was supposed to rain for about 45 minutes (and maybe make it less hot). It rained for 6 hours. It rained hard for 6 hours. I hiked for 2.5 of those hours. I got wet. My bag got wet. I figured out I was about 3 miles from the shelter I'd been aiming for at 7 PM. I was wet, cold, hungry, dehydrated, and my bug bites were itching and hurting. So around 7:15 I just pulled off to the side of the trail and set up my hammock in the rain.

There's an art to setting up a hammock in the rain. First, you set up the tarp, then you put your bag under the tarp. Then you shiver uncontrollably because it's cold, you're not hiking, and you haven't eaten yet. Then you shove half a jar of peanut butter into your mouth with your knife. Then you tell yourself it's ok, you can stop shivering now because you ate. Then you put your food bag with holes in it on a tree somewhere to hang and have the rest of your food get spoiled. Then you hang your hammock. Then you marvel about how the mosquitoes are clever creatures who have already figured out they can use your tarp to stay dry AND get free food. Then you set up your bug net. Then you chug a liter of water so you don't wake up with the dehydration. Then you set up your sleeping bag and sleeping pad in your bug net and hammock. Then you strip off your wet clothes and get in your sleeping bag and try to think dry thoughts. Then you ignore the way that the rain kinda sorta sounds like a bear walking towards your hammock as you keep a light on and try to kill all the mosquitoes who infiltrated your bug net.

Stats:
Mileage: 17 miles? (plus 3 lost miles)
Elevation Change: 1500 feet up, 1500 feet down
Trail Thoughts: Today.... was not a good day. Maybe I should go home?

Day 72 (August 22): Just Chillin'

I woke up and assessed my situation. Hungry? Check. Thirsty? Check. Cold? No. Wet? Suprisingly, no. Is it raining? No. Mosquitoes everywhere? Super check. everything I own aside from my hammock in a wet pile on the ground? check. Water remaining: 2 liters. Food which survived the night: 2 protein bars. Distance to nearest road to a town: probably 5 miles. I can do this.

So I got up, put my cold wet clothing on, accepted my mosquito bites as I took down camp, mourned the unplanned consumption of my peanut butter jar the night before, and the spoiling of my tortillas that night, and kept walking.

3 miles later, I arrived at the shelter I'd intended to reach the night before. Only Troubadore and one other (I don't know which) SoBo stayed there last night. I walked on.

About a half mile from the shelter, I came across a fairly nice view I didn't take pictures of because there were about 10 day hikers sitting there arguing and eating food (it looked tasty). I hiked on and smirked a bit when I heard them talk behind my back "did you see that guy? He was going over these rocks in socks and sandals!"

Eventually, I reached the road I needed to go into town on. It was just a 2 mile walk into town, but I wanted to make sure I went the right way. While I was looking at my guidebook, a trail angel stopped by to leave some trail magic (cliff bars and gatorade). She offered me a ride into town which I gladly accepted. Interestingly, when we got into an enclosed space, I discovered that walking for hours in the rain had actually made me smell kind of ok.

Just another beautiful day on a well maintained trail.

Finally, I got to town, ate pizza, got a motel on the beach (a really nice one with a bathtub with jets, microwave, fridge, but really spotty wifi), and dried a bunch of my stuff on the lawn in the sun. I figured I'd stay for two nights and tomorrow decide if I'd go home or buy more food and keep walking. While I was thinking this, the manager of the motel asked me which trail-head I wanted to be dropped off at on Wednesday. So I decided to keep walking.

Stats:
Mileage: 5 miles?
Elevation Change: 500 feet up, 500 feet down
Trail Thoughts: Keep on walking, keep on walking, walking walking.

Zero (August 23): Preparation

Today was great. My bites are getting less inflamed, I sent home about 8 lbs of stuff and now my pack is lighter with a resupply and full water than it normally is with no food and no water, I reminisced about the walking I've done (i.e. I updated my blog), I ate at a bunch of restaurants, and heard from a couple of the people in front of me about where I can next meet up with them.

Stats:
Blogs written: ALL THE WORDS
Calories Consumed: Many
Hours spent on library computers writing: 7
Gear Sent Home: pot, scrubby for pot, spoon, lighter, matches, boots, fleece jacket, gameboy, Pokemon Crystal, first aid kit (the stuff I haven't used yet), extra socks, AA batteries
Days of food for resupply: 2
Restaurants visited in Greenwood: 3... so far... the night is young (actually it's a little past my bedtime).

Blessings,
Grizzly

P.S. I wrote this post at the library on August 23, but couldn't upload pictures because I'd left my cable charging my kindle in my motel. Hence why its upload was delayed until now. I'm currently at my grandparent's house in MD taking a zero. Chances are good a second post will be uploaded today (no worries, I stayed on trail and have several more adventures to write about).