Thursday, September 15, 2016

New Jersey and Beyond!

Here's another post (so soon, so fast!) Depending on how regularly you check, you might want to go read the post before this one too (these were posted within 24 hours!).

Day 73 (August 24): To New Jersey!


Today was the first day I hiked with a light pack (~25 lbs), and it was phenomenal! I wound up not getting a ride back to the trail, but 3 miles up 1000 feet felt like nothing with my new and lightened pack!

While exiting New York, I left on a ridge with a continuous view off to my left (and some scrambling). While I'd been hiking in my sandals for a while now, I was quite aware that I had no other recourse should I find something difficult. It all went ok though.

About 5 miles into my hike, I met up with Moose and Crash (short for "Crash and Burn," the now named hiker I met in New York). We hiked together south of New York and into New Jersey.



Crash, Mooses pack, and random patriotism near the New York Border
In New Jersey, we passed many day hikers going up a "mountain." Most interestingly, I saw one day hiker climbing barefoot. That seemed a little intense to me (though he wasn't moving very quickly).

Super official New York, New Jersey Border
After finishing our descent, Moose stopped us to read the bulletin board, which meant we found out there was an organic farm and ice cream store about 0.2 miles away. So we ate there. It was refreshing and delicious.

Moose and Crash hitched into town to stay at a hostel, but I wanted to get a few more miles in (I planned on resupplying the next day and wanted to make it to Union Ville).

After leaving Moose and Crash, I hiked on the longest continuous boardwalk in the AT. It was quite impressive and beautiful. Especially after hiking on a ridge for so long. Eventually I made it up to the shelter despite being dive-bombed by a few gnats.

Trail Friend
At the shelter I met a couple section hikers. They were very interested in my hammock, so I demonstrated how I set it up to them. They recorded it and said they'd put it on youtube (I haven't looked for it).

Stats:
Mileage: 21.6 miles
Elevation Change: 1000 feet up, 1000 feet down
Trail Conditions: Some sheet rock. No Biggie. Lots of Boardwalk

Day 74 (August 25): Parks and Recreation


Today I was resupplying. Part of my weight reduction I did during my zero was take less food and resupply more often. I wasn't sure how fast I could do this, so I planned a short day. I also wanted to let Moose and Crash catch back up.


The Swamps of New Jersey
I walked into Unionville and resupplied quickly, but just as quickly got distracted by a couple hikers. I chatted with one section hiker who had just started, and then went to a pizzeria a hiker went into. In it, I found Wednesday, a northbounder (kinda doubt she'd gonna make it...) She ordered 5 meals but could only finish 4.5 of them... which meant I got free food.

After eating a couple more meals, I decided I only had 7 more miles to do, so could dilly dally in town a bit, so wandered to their park and started reading a book on my Kindle (Shadows of Self by Brandon Sanderson). Eventually, around 3 PM, I left to go to the shelter.

At the shelter I met Wilson Wilson and Bent, both of whom had stayed at the hostel Moose and Crash stayed at the night before.

Wilson Wilson is a 68 year old thru-hiker named after his dog, Wilson. Unfortunatly, Wilson was unable to hike the trail, so it was just Wilson Wilson hiking, not Wilson and Wilson Wilson.

Later in the night (around 10 PM) Wily Riley showed up and set up his tarp. It was fun to meet new people, though Moose and Crash never arrived (I... haven't seen them since).

Stats:
Mileage: 12.4 miles
Elevation Change: 1000 feet up, 500 feet down
Trail Conditions: Plains are hot and muggy but towns are nice.

Day 75 (August 26): New Faces!


We hiked through High Point state park today, which was quite scenic. Today really reinforced the fact that we're not in Maine or New Hampshire anymore. First, there wasn't much elevation gain. Also, what elevation gain there was, was up switch backs. Maine and New Hampshire would just point you up a mountain and wish you luck. New Jersey held your hand and provided trails and removed the need to use your hands.


The highest point in New Jersey (not on AT) pictured from the second highest point in New Jersey (on AT) in High Point State Park
Second, The Appalachian Trail in New Jersey neglected to hit the highest point in the state! Maine and New Hampshire made sure to hit every highest point (preferably by descending into a valley between them). I was mildly worried I might be getting soft walking in this, but mostly just enjoying a relaxing hike with little weight, well made trails, and little elevation gain.

Looking down on New Jersey
Later into the day, we met another northbounder who... probably wasn't going to make it. We met him around 1 PM, and I noticed he was hiking in sandals (which I liked). But, he'd only gone 2 miles before 1 PM. And he was trying to average over 20 miles a day (to make it to Katahdin). Later, I found out he'd gone 4 miles the previous day.


Morning Sunbeams on the trail (looked better in real life)
We went into a tavern before ascending a small hill to our shelter. There we got to chat with each other and townsfolk. It was good.


Bent and ye-old lake

Me and ye-old lake
Finally, we made camp at our shelter and met Just Right, a Flip Flopper who started at New York going north, reached Katahdin, then returned to New York and is now headed south. Introductions out of the way, we slept and prayed bears wouldn't eat us (they didn't).

Stats:
Mileage: 19.6 miles
Elevation Change: 500 feet up, 500 feet down
Trail Conditions: State Forests

Day 76 (August 27): Reunions

Wilson Wilson and I wanted to make it to Deleware Water Gap (and thus Pennsylvania) today, which meant doing a fair number of miles. We left and made great time on the nice flat and easy trail (put in more than 10 miles before 10 AM), and caught up with a huge group of SoBos!

In that group were Peaches, Baby Bear, Pugs, Speedo and Nemo (who I hadn't seen since VT!), and relatives of Baby Bear and Pugs (since they lived in NJ). They were having a grand old time and it was great to talk with them, though they were stopping before Delaware Water Gap (DWG), so I said farewell and left them.


Wilson Wilson and the Deleware Water Gap (almost to PA)
A few miles later, we met a birdwatcher who was counting the hawk and thruhiker migration south (there'd only been one thru-hiker before us... but many hawks that day). We made our way further south and eventually hit a ton of weekend hikers (the curse of the Saturdays) and the Pennsylvania border. While walking to the free hostel in town, Wilson Wilson and I were stopped by a group of people in a yard.


Border between New Jersey and Pennsylvania
*Wilson Wilson and I walking, tired and hungry from ~25 miles of walking*
"Hey! Are you guys hungry?"
*Slow-motion head and body turn to the right*
"...Yes."
"Want some food? We're having a band picnic and have too much!"
"Yes."
*Limping over to the picnic*

So Wilson Wilson and I got free burgers, chicken salad, sangria, fancy IPAs, spaghetti, corn bread, watermelon, and other picnic foods. In exchange we told the band and their groupies a few trail stories. They invited us to come back for music and more food later in the day. We wound up sending some other thru-hikers at the hostel to eat seconds.

Eventually, we settled into the hostel, which was just the basement of a Presbyterian church which said, "Hm... the Bible tells us to welcome strangers. Let's let a bunch of random hobos live in the basement of our church." We were all very grateful.

Stats:
Mileage: 24.8 miles
Elevation Change: 500 feet up, 1000 feet down
Trail Conditions: So flat and nic--- where'd these rocks come from?

Zero at the Church (August 28)


Today was a Sunday, and since we were in the basement of a church, I went to church (for the first time since starting the trip). Technically it was a Presbyterian church and I'm Anglican, but the liturgy is similar enough that it was very comforting. Near the end of the service, the minister asked the congregation for things we were thankful for. I said I was thankful for there not being mosquitoes in their basement. They all laughed. I kinda think they might have been kidding.

After the service, Kenny, one of the church members shuttled 5 hikers to Walmart, where we resupplied. One death defying drive later, we all bought food and then came back. When we got back, Wily Rily and Just Right had arrived at the hostel, supposedly planning on taking a "brief break" before heading out (they wound up spending the night).

The ridge runner for the next 40 miles also stopped by the church. Ridge runners are people who walk the same ~50 miles of trail, picking up people's trash, maintaining the privies, checking water, clearing the trail, and encouraging people to follow leave no trace. He warned us that the next 75 miles was "the worst trail on the AT," and gave us the inside scoop on where we could get water for the next 40 miles (turns out, about half the labeled water sources were dry, so it was good he talked to us).

Eventually, the ridge runner convinced Just Right and myself we should invest in different footware. So we took another death defying drive to Walmart. While driving, Kenny told us about how just the other day he'd been in an accident. Then he pulled across into oncoming traffic at a blind turn so he could park and we could fix the door ajar. Then we almost got hit getting back into our lane after fixing the door. But at least now we're saved from the improperly closed door.

At Walmart, I purchased some equipment (better headlamp & body glide & bug spray), and Just Right bought some child sized boots (she has small feet). I decided I'd take my chances with my sandals. They'd lasted me ~250 miles with no real problems, they could probably handle the next 200.

That evening, there was a cookout and music session at the church. However, I didn't want to pay $3 for a hot dog (because I'd probably need 5), so instead Just Right and I went to the local pizzeria and each got 14 inch pizzas (which we finished there).

Finally, as we were preparing for sleep, a father (Lost Cause) and daughter (Rewind) pair with their dog came in. I think Rewind is 12. They're thru-hiking. Also, a 76 year old Veteran came in going north. He had a 50+ lb pack and was also thru-hiking. I'm pretty comfortable saying age is not a huge restriction to thru-hiking.

Stats:
Walmart trips: 2
Times driver almost killed us: 2
Meals eaten: Only a couple... but big ones
Hikers sucked into staying the night: 7

Day 77 (August 29): Pennsylvanian Rocks


Knowing that Pennsylvainia's terrain might slow me down, I left with sunrise (~6:15 AM). I climbed up to the ridge the next 25 miles are on and walked. The first section was pretty familiar to me. Later, I met a pair of day hikers concerned for me:

*Sees 3 dogs and 2 people walking*
*Smiles and starts petting the dog who came up to me*
"Hello"
"How are you?"
"Good"
"Do you have any boots?"
"Nope."
"You know you're going into 'ankle breaker alley' right"
"I heard the rocks were bad. I'll probably be ok."
"I hope you're not going far, you'll need to go slow over the rocks."
"Thanks for the advice, have a good hike!"
"You too."
*Leaves the wonderful furry companion to go maybe break some ankles*

It really wasn't that bad. There were rocks and I did need to watch my step, but I'd climbed worse. It didn't really slow me down much. I have decided that Pennsylvania has at least 5 different difficulty ratings of trail: Beginner, Easy, Normal, Rocky, and Fun. "Ankle Breaker Alley" definitely fell into the "Fun" category. Here's images of each of the categories:


Beginner trail: for the uninitiated

Easy Trail: a couple rocks, not too bad

Normal Trail: few large rocks, lots of little rocks everywhere. Expect foot pain.

Rocky trail: be careful where you step, don't twist your ankle. Expect foot pain.

Fun trail: see 5 foot tall stick for scale.

"Ankle Breaker Alley:" Jumping across rocks on a ridge while having a view. Super Fun.

Normal Trail with foot stepping.
Eventually, I made it to the shelter I was aiming for, and met Day Hiker and Achilles there! Turns out they'd gotten a stomach bug and been forced to take 5 zeros off trail, which enabled me to catch them despite taking two zeros, a nero, having them leave while I stayed, and not going particularly fast. We chatted. Of particular note, we found a mildly crass and misogynistic haiku someone (probably a day-hiking high school senior) had written. We decided to write a two page long feminist reinterpretation of it. We... might need to find better things to do.

Eventually, Just Right made it to camp, and I volunteered to go on a water run (water was 0.5 miles down the mountain).

The beginning of the trip was marred by difficulty, as in the process of standing up I dealt my pants a fatal blow (4 small holes and 2 mild holes in the seat of the pants is ok. 4 small holes, 2 mild holes, and 1 1" by 1" hole in the seat of the pants is probably not ok.) Mourning the impending loss of my pants (it's not like I had anything to change into), I descended the mountain looking for water. Unfortunately, I missed the turn-off to the spring and wound up going into some neighborhood. I briefly considered knocking on a door to ask if they could fill up the 4.5 gallons of capacity I had brought (I took everyone's water things), but decided that would be a little weird, and I should just return and look for the spring on the way up. I eventually found it, and returned to camp just as night was falling with 30+ lbs of water. There was much rejoicing.

Stats:
Mileage: 20.1 miles
Elevation Change: 1500 feet up, 500 feet down
Trail Conditions: "Ankle Breaker Alley"

Day 78 (August 30): McDonnalds Hobo Etiquette


Today, we passed the Superfund site. This is a place which did copper smelting a little too hard, deforested a mountain, and is now a reforestation project. It was actually one of the nicest portions of trail we've walked on. Immediately afterwards, the 1000 foot descent down a boulder field was one of the most fun portions of trail we've walked on.


Lunch Break spot
After descending, I wanted to go into town to resupply, buy dinner, and charge my phone. Unfortunately, Pennsylvania hitching failed me, so I wound up walking 2.5 miles into town... then 2.5 miles out of town.

While resupplying, I reached a conundrum. I normally go to McDonnalds (or similar) restaurants when in town because 1. I can eat a meal for under $20, 2. They normally have outlets, 3. They normally don't mind if a smelly homeless guy sits in their booth for 3 hours.

Unfortunately, the McDonnalds I went to was already full of homeless charging users! All three of the tables with outlet access were taken! I settled into a watch nearby after ordering my food, determined to swoop in and take the coveted outlet once one of them left.

An hour later, I'd eaten my food, but the three outlet users were still going strong. Charging my phone was imperative because I had a friend in Pennsylvania I was trying to coordinate visiting with. I needed to leave within 2 hours, unless I got a hitch back to the trail, in which case I could leave in 3 hours. I considered my options:

Table 1: An older (60-ish) man with about a week's worth of gray stubble, a phone and tablet charging at his table, a small fortress of possessions, slightly dirty clothing (not as bad as mine), and food spread around.
Table 2: A middle aged (40-ish) man, clean shaven, tucked in polo shirt, one meal eaten in front of him, charging his phone. Probably owns a car.
Table 3: A young (upper 20s?) woman with an infant in a stroller. Charging a phone, feeding her child, and talking to someone at the same time. Probably a single mother?

My target acquired, I approached the clean man and asked:
"Is it alright if I use the other outlet at your table? I'll just be over there."
*points to the table my pack, three meals, walking stick, guidebook, large drink, nalgenes, and other assorted gear are at*
*Man looks up, looks frightened*
"Oh! Yes! That's fine. I was just leaving."
"Thanks!"
*I plug in my phone and return to my table*
*man frantically packs his things and has left the McDonnalds within 1 minute*
*Success!*

Charging secured, I contacted Malia to begin arranging when and what she'd like to do while I was in Pennsylvania.

2 hours later, when I needed to leave, I packed up my things (table 1 was still going strong, table 3 had vacated about 45 minutes after I started charging) and left. Sadly, the McDonnalds bathroom was being cleaned (or something), so I couldn't get the full McDonnalds experience, but I figured I'd just poop at the privy in the shelter I was going to.

Stats:
Mileage: 16.7
Elevation Change: 1000 feet up, 1500 feet down
Trail Conditions: Wait... there's no privy? Madness.

Blessings,
David "Grizzly" Martin

P.S. Ok. Now I'm back off into the Maryland wilderness, which means no keyboard, which means little to no typing, which means back to radio silence from me (for most of you). Rest assured, I'm doing well, I'm now over halfway through, and I'm excitedly looking forward to the Shenandoahs, which I should get to in the next couple days. Then, I think I'll get some views as good as I got in Maine and New Hampshire (Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and New York didn't have that many great views... by my standards)

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